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Policing counterfeit gourmet food

There was an article in the Sunday paper yesterday titled Food cops: Italy's palates guard. Who knew that there was such a business to be made from fake cheese, ham, basil and vinegar?

The food detectives, empowered to not only enter premises on demand but are also allowed to carry firearms(!) and have ways of detecting such counterfeit products. Special machines are used to generate slight flaws in the logo on the rind and sniff-tests involved a needle made from a horse's shin bone can root out imposters.

Fascinating.